DOG TRAINING MANUAL
North
Shore Animal League America’s
Dog Training Manual
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
DOG TRAINING
MANUAL
North Shore Animal League America, headquartered in Port
Washington, NY, is
the largest no-kill animal rescue and adoption organization in the
world. Since
1944, The League's mission has been saving the lives of pets
through
adoption, rescue, spay/neuter and advocacy initiatives. Every year,
the League
reaches across the country to rescue, nurture and adopt nearly
20,000 pets
into happy and loving homes. To date, the League has placed close
to 1
million puppies, kittens, cats and dogs into carefully screened
homes.
There is no one that loves pets more than North Shore Animal
League
America. We certainly understand that the love of a pet can be one
of the most
precious and rewarding loves one ever knows. We also understand
that
bringing a new pet into your family can definitely have its
hurdles.
It is a huge responsibility with many different issues that can
possibly arise.
We would like to make your new pet experience as smooth and
enjoyable as
possible. We’ve picked the brains of our various esteemed experts
and
assembled a New Pet Training Manual to aide you in your new pet
endeavors.
We wish you the best of luck and know that armed with this helpful
guide, you
will assimilate your new family member as easily and as stress-free
as
possible.
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
TABLE OF CONTENTS
TOPICS: PAGE
Establishing Yourself as the Pack Leader 1
Opening the Lines of Communication 2
Crate Training 3-4
Housebreaking 5
Paper Training 6
Appropriate Toys 7
Appropriate Play 8
Socialization 9
Fearful Dogs 10
Introducing a New Dog 11
Living in Harmony With More Than One Dog 12
Dog vs. Dog: Living Together 13
Preparing for a New Baby 14
Dealing with Behavioral Problems 15
Behavioral Problems: Prevention, Distraction 16
Behavioral Problems: Corrections 17
Fabricating Situations 18
Solutions to Common Behavior Problems 19-20
Submissive Urination 21
Separation Anxiety 22
Barrier Frustration 23-24
Protective Behavior/Guarding 24
Running Out the Door 25
Object/Food Possessiveness 26
Exercises for Food Possessiveness 27
Training Tools 28
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
ESTABLISHING YOURSELF AS THE PACK LEADER
Asserting dominance:
Dogs often go through major changes in their lives. Their homes,
families, and even names can
change. The one constant in their lives is the social structure by
which they live. Dogs are pack
animals that live by a social hierarchy. When a dog enters a new
home, he is looking for that
structure. It is important for obedience and stability that the dog
sees all the people in the family as
dominant over him. If the dog does not see the owners as authority
figures, he has no reason to
listen to them. If there is inconsistent behavior on the part of
the family, the dog’s behavior will also
be inconsistent. If there is no clear pack leader, the dog will
assume the role in order to ensure the
integrity of the pack. The following is a list of guidelines that
will help you and your family to
establish yourselves as authority figures.
KEEP A TETHER ON THE DOG AT ALL TIMES WHEN YOU ARE HOME
Do not allow the dog on the furniture:
If the dog is on your bed or on your couch with you, eating popcorn
and watching TV, he is your
equal and not your subordinate. To correct this, keep your dog
tethered when you are home.
(A tether is a 4-6 foot long cotton rope that you attach to the
dog’s collar to hold or grab
when necessary instead of grabbing the dog.) This provides you with
control over the dog
until you can establish control with your voice.If the dog gets
onto the furniture, use the tether
to direct him to the appropriate bed. When initially introducing it
to the dog, it may be necessary to
soak the rope in strong mouthwash to deter chewing. It is also a
good idea to first introduce the
tether along with the regular leash and take the dog out as a
distraction. Have a special bone on
hand to further distract the dog from chewing. A tether is lighter
than a leash so the dog feels that
he is free. Cotton is absorbent (for the mouthwash) and less likely
to hurt your hands. The tether
can gradually be made shorter by cutting it as you begin to gain to
control of the dog with your
voice.
You go through the door first:
Teach him to “wait” at the door. “Wait” is different from “stay,”
which means to remain in one spot
in one position. “Wait” simply means don’t follow. When the dog is
waiting for you to open the
door say “wait,” praise and give a treat. Control the dog by using
the door. Open it slowly. If the
dog goes to move say “NO” and close the door (not on the dog). When
the dog is waiting again,
repeat the above. As soon as the dog seems to be cooperating, open
the door, treat him for
waiting, and give him a command such as “let’s go” if you are going
with him, or “Go” if you are
letting him out. The dog will soon learn that he does not go out
unless he waits and is given a
command.
The pack leader is the first to eat: gesture feed:
The pack leader owns the food and is the first to eat. Stand in
front of the dog holding his bowl of
food. Eat a cracker as though you are eating from the bowl. When
you are finished have him sit
and give him the food. Pick up the food as soon as the dog walks
away. Food should never be left
down. Whoever feeds the dog moves up a few notches in the hierarchy
of the pack. This can be a
useful way of empowering someone whose dominance is
questionable.
11
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
OPENING THE LINES OF COMMUNICATION
Training by interaction:
Dogs communicate with body language and learn through consistency,
repetition and attention.
Any attention is potentially a form of reinforcement, positive or
negative. For example: puppies
will often jump for attention. As the dog is jumping, the owner is
saying “off” or “down” (giving the
dog the attention he was seeking.) The dog learns jumping up gets
attention, so the behavior
continues. It is better to ignore the dog (no feedback) and avoid
all eye contact. This is called
“Extinction.” He will get off eventually. When he does, seize the
moment by saying “off” (always
attach a word to the behavior) and praise the dog, “good
off.”
Building a vocabulary; attach the word to the behavior:
Dogs attach your words to their actions. For example, your dog is
about to sit, you say “sit.” The
dog will soon attach the word to that action and sit when told.
This is true of all actions; when the
dog is waiting at the door say, “wait.” When he is eliminating say
“empty,” etc.
Tone of voice is important:
Never use the dog’s name in a negative way
Never call the dog to you for a negative reason (scolding) or what
the dog perceives as negative
(brushing or bathing). The “come” command should always be a
positive experience.
Never hit a dog!
Dogs communicate through body language. A motion that appears
subtle to you is exaggerated to
a dog. A smack on the nose is equivalent to a punch in the nose.
Hitting may cause the dog to
become hand shy, fearful or aggressive.
2
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
CRATE TRAINING
Dogs are “den” animals. This means they like to have their own
small space to go into or under.
The crate (cage) is a den-like enclosure where the dog eats and
sleeps. The crate serves as a
housetraining tool since dogs are clean animals and do not like to
eliminate where they eat and
sleep. When introduced properly, it can serve as a training tool to
address and avoid other
behavior problems such as chewing and separation anxiety.Never use
a crate as punishment.
Choosing a Crate
There are a variety of crates on the market. There are plastic
“airline” crates that have solid sides
and are more enclosed than the metal crates. They do not provide as
much ventilation. The
amount of time the dog spends in the crate and the temperature in
your home should be taken
under consideration when purchasing an “airline” crate .This type
of a crate is a good choice for
fearful dogs and those suffering from separation anxiety. The metal
crates have bars and a
removable plastic tray on the bottom and are easier to clean. They
come in silver, gold and black.
Some of these crates fold to be easily transported or stored. This
type of a crate is an excellent
choice if you travel with your dog or have limited storage
space.
Size
The crate should be large enough for the dog to stand up, turn
around and lay down. When
purchasing a crate for a puppy, get one that comes with dividers
that can move to accommodate
your growing dog.
Location
The crate should be in a centrally located area in your home. Never
leave a dog in an isolated area
such as a basement (even a nicely finished one) or a laundry room.
Do not allow children to play in
the crate or bother the dog while in the crate.
Bedding
Dogs have a strong instinct to keep their “den” clean. Bedding of
any kind can absorb urine,
leaving the crate “clean“ in the dog’s mind. Do not provide the dog
with bedding in the crate until
he has proven to be clean.
Food and Water
Dogs do not like to soil where they eat. Initially feeding the dog
in the crate will reinforce his instinct
to be clean. Pick up the food after 1⁄2 an hour. There should
always be water in the crate. A cage
cup that fastens onto the cage will help to prevent spillage. The
water can be taken away at
bedtime for housebreaking purposes.
3
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
Introducing the Crate
Supplies Needed:
~ Along lasting chew bone;
~ Soft treats;
~ A ”Kong” with a piece of rope knotted through it and stuffed with
really good treats. (Examples:
canned dog food, easy cheese or peanut butter);
~ Cage cup; and
~ Time and patience.
Step One-After showing the dog the “Kong,” tie it to the inside
back wall of the crate, and place a
trail of soft treats from the entrance to the back of the crate.
Close the door so the dog cannot get
to the treats. The dog is outside of the crate longing for the
treat inside.
Step two-When the dog is sufficiently interested, open the door.
The dog should enter on his own,
say “inside” when he does, and give him another treat. Allow the
dog to go in and out at will,
repeating “inside” and treating when he does.
Step three-Once the dog is comfortable going in and out, give him a
long lasting bone, close the
door, praise and give treats .If he whines or cries, turn away and
ignore him until he is quiet then
praise and give treats.
Step four- Walk away, count to ten and go back and praise.
Gradually increase the time away from
the crate. Return, praise and treat for appropriate behavior.
Whether you use a crate or confine a dog behind a gate, confinement
should be introduced
and utilized when you are home for short periods as well as when
you are out. This will
insure the dog does not associate being confined with being left
alone.
Never confine a dog behind closed doors or in an isolated
area.
4
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
BASICS OF HOUSEBREAKING
1 - Confine your dog in a small (den-like) area, with water and a
proper chew toy. This should not
be in an isolated area in your home. Use a training crate or a gate
for confinement and NEVER
isolate a dog behind a closed door.
2 - Do not give the dog bedding in this area until you know he/she
is holding his urine. If the dog
has an accident, the bedding can be pushed aside, maintaining a
clean den.
3 - Pick up the papers! Unless you are training a very young puppy,
it is not necessary to use
paper training as a means to house break your dog.
4 - Clean soiled area using 50% vinegar/water solution or an enzyme
cleaner such as "Natures
Miracle" or "Eliminate." This will prevent the dog from being drawn
back to the same area.
5 - Maintain a consistent schedule for your housebreaking routine.
This will help your dog
anticipate the time he/she is going to need to eliminate and help
you to predict as well. For
example morning, afternoon, evening and before bed.
6 - Feed him/her a Good Diet the same time every day. Leave food
down for a half hour at each
meal and feed in confinement area to reinforce cleanliness. Do not
leave food down for your
dog all the time. It will cause his/her elimination habits to be
erratic.
7 - Dogs must be supervised when out of confinement area with a
leash or a tether attached to his
collar at all times. This will make the dog more accessible and
help prevent accidents.
8 - When changing diet, gradually introduce food in 25%
increments.
9 - Pick up water one hour before bed time.
10 - Begin to enlarge the confinement area when you notice your dog
is regularly clean. Do not
reprimand for an accident you did not see occur. If you witness an
accident, give the dog
verbal correction (NO) and bring dog to the proper place.
11 - Always take your dog out the same door, using the command
"out." The dog will then learn to
go to that door to let you know when he needs to go out.
12 - On a leash, bring your dog to the same spot each time, stay
there until he/she eliminates.
Attach a word to the action such as "empty" and always remember to
praise verbally.
13 - Most importantly, dog should be in confinement area when not
100% supervised. This will
prevent uncorrectable accidents. Confinement should be supplemented
with plenty of
exercise.
5
z2007
North Shore Animal League America
PAPER TRAINING
The choice to paper train or housebreak depends on the age of the
dog, Paper training is
generally used when the dog is too young to have the muscle control
to hold his urine for more
than a few hours. The general rule is that a dog can hold his urine
for an hour longer than his age in
months, example: a two month old can hold it for three hours. This
is a general rule. Dogs are
individuals and this may vary from dog to dog. When the dog remains
dry overnight you can begin
to housebreak him. There is no way to predict how long this will
take or how long
housebreaking will take because of individual differences in the
dog and his environment.
The difference between
housebreaking and paper training is the toilet area and method
of
confinement.
Dogs are clean animals; they do not like to eliminate where they
eat and sleep. They prefer to
eliminate on absorbent surfaces. This prevents them from standing
in a pool of their own urine.
Confine the dog in a small area free of carpet using a gate. This
should not be an isolated area
such as a basement or a garage.
Provide the dog with water, something to chew and a bed on one side
of the room. The dog should
be fed in this area. You may use a crate with bedding as long as
the door is left open so the dog
has access to the paper. Put paper on the other side of the
room.
Feed the dog the same time everyday. Only leave the food down for
1/2 an hour. The dog should
have water all day until after dinner or before bedtime.
Make sure the dog is supervised when out of this area and has
access to it. If the dog has an
accident in front of you, say,” no” and bring him to the paper to
show him the proper place to go. If
you find an accident just clean it up using an enzyme cleaner such
as “Eliminate or Natures
Miracle”.
The four most likely times for a dog to eliminate are after eating,
exercise or excitement and upon
waking. Attach a word to the action of eliminating such as “empty”.
Do this AS the dog is urinating
or defecating not before or after. This will ease the transition
when teaching the dog to eliminate
outside.
6
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
APPROPRIATE TOYS
Appropriate toys are toys that cannot harm the dog or teach
/reinforce any undesirable behaviors.
Make sure the toy or bone is an appropriate size for your dog. It
should not be small enough to fit
completely in the dog’s mouth, making it possible for him to
swallow it and choke. Do not
overwhelm the dog with toys. Rotate them to keep his interest. The
dog should always have
something to chew. Keep in mind anything new to a dogs’ system may
cause diarrhea.
Appropriate Bones:
Processed marrow bone: this is a real bone that has been
sterilized. It is white and shaped like a
tube. Stuff it with canned dog food (this is less likely to affect
the dogs stomach or housebreaking
routine). Keep a few of them in a zip lock bag in the freezer to
have them on hand. As the dog gets
older you can stuff them with peanut butter or cheese (use the
canned “easy cheese” with the
whipped cream like nozzle).
To clean, use a bottle brush, the hose on your sink or, the
dishwasher. You can also boil these in
bouillon for added flavor.
Compressed rawhide: this is safer than regular rawhide. It is less
likely to cause choking.
Pig Twists: these are shaped like a retriever stick but are safer
since they are made from pig skin
instead of rawhide.
Nylabones: these come in an edible variety or hard, plain and
flavored nylon.
Knuckle bones: these are real bones that are very messy and should
be restricted to a crate or
washable floor to avoid any remaining residue.
There are a variety of animal by products on the market such as pig
ears and cow hooves. These
products can stimulate the dogs “prey/killer” instincts which lays
dormant and cause some dogs to
display aggression or guard the item. These are not appropriate for
dogs that exhibit this behavior.
Inappropriate Bones:
Rawhide: most rawhide is processed in formaldehyde. Rawhide can
also cause choking.
Poultry, fish or chop bones (lamb or pork chops): these can
splinter causing injury.
Appropriate toys:
Kong: this is a hard, hollow rubber toy shaped like a beehive. It
can be filled with food or treats.
The Kong manufacturer has a variety of hard rubber toys including a
treat ball.
Crazy Ball and Buster Cube: are activity toys that dispense treats
as the dog plays.
Hard rubber balls or donut shapes and sticks
Inappropriate Toys:
Rope toys, clothing such as shoes and socks or anything
fabric
Stuffed animals-Exception: If you have a dog that likes to carry
something soft in his mouth but
does not chew it, you can provide him with a nondescript lamb’s
wool stuffed animal made
specifically for dogs.
Toys with squeakers; if the dog chews and is left unsupervised, the
squeaker can get lodged in
the dog’s throat.
7
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
APPROPRIATE PLAY
People often make the mistake of getting the dog riled up in the
name of play. Then when the
person wants to stop, the dog doesn’t understand, continues to
“play” and ends up in trouble.
Play should have a clear beginning, ending and rules. It is
important that no bad behavior is taught
or reinforced by play. Example: Play that entices the dog to jump
or use his mouth such as
throwing a ball when the dog jumps for it or playing tug of
war.
Retrieving exercise or Fetch; You are going to “name” each of the
dog’s behaviors as he does
them.This builds a vocabulary, but doesn’t set the dog up to
disobey
because you are not tellingthe dog to do anything. Use two
identical
tennis sized balls that squeak. The dog should not see these balls
at
any other time and should not be allowed to play with them by
himself.
Squeak one ball, the dog will run to you, say, “come” when he
comes.
Have him sit by holding the ball close to his nose and bringing it
back
to his forehead. Say “sit” when he sits. Throw the ball. When he
goes
for it say “get it”. When he picks it up say “take it”. When he
runs back
toward you say “bring it here.”
If he doesn’t, entice him by throwing and catching the other
ball.
When he gets to you, squeak the second ball. This should cause
him
to drop the first one, and you will say “drop it.” This is a
confidence
building exercise that teaches the dog to relinquish objects to
you. It also teaches the functional
task of retrieving .You can later apply the same words to any
dropped object.
Hide and Seek; Hide with *treats in various locations, gradually
building on the level of difficulty.
Example: First hide behind a chair then behind a door. Say “Jake,
you can’t find me?” When the
dog finds you say “come” (naming his action). Have a second person
hiding and set up a relay
between the two. If there is only one person available or if the
dog follows you give him a longer
lasting treat such as a hard biscuit so you have a chance to get
away and hide again. If the dog
knows “stay” have him stay then go hide.
Variations: “Go Find” where the dog goes to find a certain toy or a
person.
*Good treats to have on hand to reinforce desirable behaviors
should be long and soft so you can
break off one small piece at a time that the dog can eat quickly.
Example: Waldbaum’s brand
“Masters Choice” beef or chicken jerky for dogs.
INAPPROPRIATE PLAY
Tug of war:this teaches the dog to use his mouth. It can also
reinforce
dominance if you let go first and he wins. Exception - tug of war
is sometimes
used as a confidence building exercise for an exceptionally fearful
/timid dog
Any play that reinforces wild, undesirable behaviors such as
jumping or
barking.
8
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
SOCIALIZATION
More dogs are euthanized for behavior problems stemming from lack
of socialization and
lack of exercise than they are for the diseases they are being
inoculated against. It is okay
for you to take the dog out on your own property or in the
car.
It is very important to socialize your dog to a variety of people,
places and things.
If all he knows is your home and your yard, he will not know how to
act appropriately in new
situations or environments. He will either be fearful or suspicious
of new things or be overly
excited.
Appropriate Methods of Socialization
~ Have friends and neighbors over.
~ Bring him in the car:Do not leave the dog alone in the car.Be
careful with
automatic windows. Do not allow the dog to stick his head out the
window, the car
provides a secure area from which the dog can become accustomed to
the outside
world.
~ Bring over to the homes of friends and relatives.
~ Introduce to another dog:It is important to limit a young pup’s,
exposure to a lot of
other dogs or areas frequented by other dogs until he has all of
his shots. You can
introduce him to another dog as long as you know that the dog is
healthy and
vaccinated. Remember to introduce them on neutral territory. The
other dog will tire
him out and correct him for inappropriate behaviors such as
mouthing too hard.
*Inappropriate Methods of Socialization
~ Do not have a lot of company over at one time; this can be
overwhelming.
~ Do not take out to a dog park or any area frequented by other
dogs until fully
inoculated(such as if you live in an urban area like
Manhattan).
~ Do not leave the dog in the car unattended.
9
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
FEARFUL DOGS
There are many reasons why a dog may be fearful. A dog may be
genetically predisposed to
fearfulness, poorly socialized or been frightened by a specific
situation or experience. The cause
does not necessarily affect the treatment but may affect the
success of the treatment. It may not
be possible to change the way a dog feelsin a specific situation;
but through obedience
training, it is possible to change the way the dog behavesin that
situation.
Signs of Fear:
A fearful dog may display submissive body languagesuch as his tail
tucked between his legs, his
head down with ears held flat and will avoid eye contact. They may
urinate submissively or loose
control over their bowels and bladder.Yawning, panting or
salivatingcan all be signs of stress.
Some dogs will barkor growl. Some will “freeze;” others will try to
escape.They all must be
handled with gentle guidance and patience.
Treatment:
~ Obedience Trainingand structure to build confidence (see
“Establishing Yourself as The Pack
Leader”)
~ Desensitization:Gradually exposing the dog to low levels of the
fear inducing stimulus and
praising for calm appropriate behavior. Reward with extra special
treats and couple them with
a specific sound such as a clicker or a specific word like “yes.”
This way you can eventually
praise the dog for acting appropriately even without the treat or
from a distance. It is important to
graduallyincrease the exposure to the fearful stimuli. The dog
should not become fearful
during these exercises. You want to give the dog the opportunity to
act appropriately in the
situation.Reward the dog at the end of each exercise by taking him
away from the stimulus.
Gradually get closer with each exercise.
Counter-conditioning:
~ Use a Jolly Jingle: Establish a jingle you sing or whistle to the
dog whenever you are playing
and he is happy. Once a positive association is formed,sing this
when in the company of a
fear-inducing stimulus.This is the equivalent of the affect the ice
cream man has on a child
crying. The child knows something good is coming and stops
crying.
~ Practice Obedience:While at a comfortable distance from the
stimuli, practice obedience using
treats and positive methods. This will cause the dog to focus on
the task required of him.Do
not use leash corrections or punishment. You will know if the dog
is at a comfortable distance by
his body language and whether or not he will take treats. Dogs do
not typically eat when
stressed.
Never scold the dog in the company of the fearful stimulus. Be
patient. Never force a dog
into a fearful situation.
If the dog is fearful toward a person in your house (typically the
man of the house), that
person needs to become the primary care giver. They should feed and
walk the dog with as
little interaction as possible. The rest of the family should
ignore the dog. Being a social
animal he will seek the attention of the person with the most
interaction with him – the
caregiver.
10
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
INTRODUCING A NEW DOG
Dogs are territorial animals. Always introduce dogs on neutral
territory(somewhere neither dog
has ever been). Whether you are introducing a new dog into a home
with an existing dog, having
company that includes a dog, or setting up a play date, introduce
the dogs on neutral territory
beforehand. This is an ounce of prevention that is well worth the
trouble.
Introductions:
Have both dogs on leashes until you feel comfortable that there is
no aggression. Do not
introduce the dogs “head on.” Walk with dogs parallel to each
other. Allow the dogs to sniff but do
not stop. Proceed to a confined area and drop the leashes, but keep
them attached to the dogs’
collars for accessibility, should a problem occur. If possible
change to a short piece of a leash (a
tab) to avoid the dogs becoming tangled. Have water or noise
corrections such as a marine air
horn or pot lids on hand in case a fight breaks out. Use these
corrections as soon as a fight
starts to stop the dogs long enough to safely separate them. Keep
in mind there are all different
types of dog verse dog aggression. Some dogs are only aggressive
when on a leash because they
feel vulnerable (restrained) or behind a fence because they are
frustrated. Fights typically break out
between dogs of the same sex. It is always best to introduce dogs
of the opposite sex if there is
any doubt.
Signs of aggression:
Dogs play so rough it is often hard to tell the difference between
play and aggression.
The hair running down the back of a dog is usually raised when
meeting another dog. This is a
defense mechanism to make the dog appear bigger in the event of a
perceived threat; it does not
by itself mean aggression.
When two dogs meet, they sniff and circle each other. Typically one
dog will mount the side of the
other as a sign of dominance. If the dog being mounted accepts this
display, he will growl and or
lunge to “correct” the offending dog. If the offender backs off,
there is no problem; if he doesn’t, a
fight will usually break out. When looking for aggression, look at
the dog’s whole body. When a
dog is aggressive, his entire body typically stiffens and all of
his weight is shifted forward.
More obvious signs of aggression such as growling and showing teeth
usually accompany
this.
Breaking up a dog fight:
It is much easier to prevent a fight than it is to stop one. In the
event of a fight, never use your
hands or physically get between fighting dogs.When fighting, even
the most placid animal is in
a heightened state of arousal (fight or flight) and will not
differentiate between you and the other
dog. You will get bitten.
Use something to startle the dog so you can safely separate them as
mentioned above. To
separate them, throw something (such as your jacket) over the dogs
head, put a chair or similar
item between them or* loop a leash around the dogs rear to pull
them apart.
*This is very dangerous be sure to be quick and start to pull the
dog side ways so he needs to side
step and can’t turn toward you.
11
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
LIVING IN HARMONY WITH MORE THAN ONE DOG
When considering a second dog, your first concern should be
compatibility with the existing dog.
Most dogs find it easier to accept dogs of the opposite sex. This
does not mean that dogs of the
same sex can’t get along. Introducing a dog properly is an
important factor in the success of
the relationship(see Introducing Another Dog).
Remember that dogs are pack animals. People should always be at the
top of the hierarchy.
The dogs will have their own pecking order under the people.
Trouble starts when there is
confusion as to who is in charge. The owner can help by maintaining
position as the pack
leader (see Establishing Yourself As The Pack Leader) and
supporting the dominant dog. This
may not be the one that was there first, the older one, the male,
female or the one you want it to
be. It is not always immediately apparent which dog is more
dominant .Watch the dogs’ body
language as they interact. The more submissive dog will back off
when corrected by the dominant
one and may display submissive behaviors such as avoidance,
exposing his belly or licking the
underside of the other dog’s muzzle.
Supporting the Dominant Dog
The dominant dog will be referred to as dog #1 and the submissive
one will be dog #2.
Dog #1 is first to get any attention.Be careful not to abdicate
your position as the authority
figure while supporting the dog.Example ;You are alone petting dog
# 2 and dog #1 comes in
and pushes into you demanding attention. Ignore him and continue to
pet dog # 2. Have dog #1 do
something such as sit, and then praise him for complying. In this
situation, dog # 1 is trying to tell
you what to do, and that is unacceptable.
Dog # 1 is fed first. Have tethers attached to the collars of both
dogs. This ensures access to both
dogs to help break up any scuffles if necessary. Put #1s’ bowl down
just a second before #2’s.
When preparing the dogs’ food, place a Kong (see Suitable Play and
Toys) filled with some of the
dogs food in dog #1’s bowl along with his food. This will cause him
to eat slower and give # 2 a
chance to eat in case #1 comes to steal his food. If he learns to
take the Kong out than use a large
stone.
Dogs living together are like siblings. It is not unusual to get on
each others nerves or get into
scuffles. Let them work it out. Only intervene if bloodshed seems
inevitable. If you interfere as
soon as you hear a growl you are taking away the importance of that
growl. This may force
the dog to go to the next step which would be to lunge or
bite.
Be sure to provide each dog with time to himself and time alone
with you. This would be a good
time to practice some obedience or play a game of fetch.
Never confine dogs together in a small space.
12
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
DOG VS. DOG: LIVING TOGETHER
When experiencing aggression between two dogs living together, it
is important to maintain a
strong leadership role through everyday interactions and formal
obedience training.
Obedience training gives the dog clear information that you are the
authority figure and teacher.
This helps the dog to understand his place in the hierarchy of your
household by opening the lines
of communication and establishing clear rules. Practicing obedience
provides the dog with both
mental and physical exercise as well as time alone with you away
from the other dogs.
Make sure it is truly aggression rather than rough play before
interfering. Dogs growl when
they play. Yelping or crying indicates things are too rough, and
it’s time to tell them to take it easy
using a noise correction. Aggression is typically marked by
stiffening of body language,
showing of teeth and consistently inappropriate bite pressure
causing injury. (See Introducing
Dogs). A “Spray Commander” citronella collar or a “throw chain” are
excellent corrections that will
only affect the aggressor.
Asserting yourself as the pack leader through everyday interactions
and obedience takes time.
There are things you can do in the mean time to help prevent
bloodshed.
~ Support the dominant dog.(See Living in Harmony with More Than
One Dog)
~ Keep the dogs separatedwhere they can’t see each other (to avoid
barrier
frustration) when you are not home.
~ Keep tethers or leashes attached to the collars of both dogs when
they are
together.
~ Depending on the severity of the problem, you may want tokeep a
“Gentle Leader” head
harness on the instigator with a tether attached. The dog will
still be able to bite but you will
have control of his head. The head harness instantly gives the dog
the message that you are the
leader and takes him down a few notches in the hierarchy of things.
Make sure it is only when
you are home. Having the “Gentle Leader” on for long periods of
time can cause chaffing of the
dogs muzzle. To help avoid chaffing apply “mole skin” under the
band that goes on the dog’s
muzzle. This is available in the “Dr. Scholl” department of a drug
store.
~ Use a deterrent to keep the aggressor away from an area of the
victim’s body.
Examples:
1. A natural flea collar has a very strong odor and may keep the
aggressor away from the
victim’s neck.
2. “Bitter Apple Gel” can be applied to the victim’s ears.
~ Provide the victim with body armor.Get aleather collar with large
spikessticking upward. A
“prong collar” put on inside-outwith the spikes sticking upprovides
excellent protection for
the victim’s neck.
Be aware of situations that may cause an aggressive incident.
~ Feeding time: (See” Living in Harmony with More Than One
Dog”)
~ When giving treats or bones or playing with toys
~ When someone is at the door/ when family members come and
go.
13
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
PREPARING FOR A NEW BABY
(With or without previous obedience training)
Dogs are creatures of habit. Make any major changes before the baby
arrives. Get the dog
into a routine of feeding, exercise and play at the same time
everyday. This should be the
dog’s special playtime for interacting with you. This gives him
something to look forward to each
day andprovides stability when everything around him is changing.
The father should do this
so there is no change when the baby arrives.Teach him to fetch
using two balls that he only
sees at playtime. In order to teach the dog to fetch, get two
identical balls that squeak. Squeak
one ball to get the dogs attention. Hold it close to his forehead
and bring it back toward his
shoulder; this should cause him to sit. When he sits, say “sit,”
and throw the ball. When he runs
after it, say “get it.” When he picks it up in his mouth, say “take
it.” When he comes back toward
you, say “bring it.” When he gets to you or near you, squeak the
second ball. This will make him
drop the first ball; then say “drop it.” Then start the exercise
all over again. You always have a ball
and so does the dog. Fetch is an easy game to play while you are
pushing a child on a swing or
while relaxing in a chair.
Get a doll and treat it like a baby. If you have access to a real
baby, get soiled clothing that
smells like the baby (without excrement) to dress the doll in. Tape
record crying and other baby
sounds and strap a small recorder to the doll. This affords you the
opportunity to be
comfortable while the dog is close to the baby (near the feet-never
the face or head) without
him sensing any apprehension that could be misinterpreted.
When the baby arrives home, have whoever the dog is closest to go
into the house first. That
person should greet the dog put on a leash and take him out since
the presence of leash will make
him anticipate a walk. Bring him back in the house or remain
outside andhave the other person
introduce the baby. The dog should be on a leash and calmly praised
for appropriate
behavior. Show the dog the baby while maintaining a comfortable
distance. If all goes well, the
dog can eventually sniff the baby’s feet.
Do not make the mistake of giving the dog attention only when you
are not occupied with the baby.
You want the dog to get more attention when the baby is around; not
when the baby is
sleeping or out of the room.
If the dog exhibits any inappropriate behavior or you have any
concerns, please contact the
behavior department and speak with a professional trainer.
(516) 883-7900 ext. 243.
14
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
DEALING WITH BEHAVIORAL PROBLEMS
North Shore Animal League America understands that owning a pet is
a big undertaking. In
addition to being one of the most rewarding experiences, being
completely responsible for a life
can also feel rather stressful. There are many issues that come up
that can make us doubt our
parenting skills and leave us scratching our heads thinking, “What
am I doing wrong?” A winning
recipe of love and discipline is key to pet owner success, but
isn’t always as easy as it sounds.
Behavioral issues are common occurrences with a new pet, so don’t
be surprised to experience
some hitches at first. To assist you with some of the more common
problems that can arise with
your new family member, North Shore Animal League America has
assembled some common
behavioral problems along with tips and advice to correct them. We
would like to help make your
new pet experience as smooth, stress-free and pleasant as
possible.
Being pack animals, dogs live according to a social hierarchy. When
the dog leaves the litter and
moves in with you, your family becomes his “pack” or “litter
mates.” In order to address any
behavior problem, it is imperative that the dog has respect for all
members of the family as “pack
leaders.” If you are not an “authority figure,” the dog will have
no reason to listen to you. Since
dogs do this to get your attention, you first have to make sure all
of his needs for attention are
being met.
The dog should be on a schedule that includes: feeding, toileting,
exercise, socialization and
appropriate play. This will ensure that his needs are being met but
on your terms. The dog will be
less likely to do things to get your attention since his needs are
being met. Knowing that his needs
are being met, you can justifiably correct inappropriate
behavior.
To a dog, any attention may be better than no attention. Because
bad behavior typically draws
more attention than good behavior, make sure to praise your dog for
appropriate actions. These
may include lying down and being calm, otherwise he may do things
just to get attention.
Not all corrections work on every dog. In order for a correction to
work, it has to be effective
enough not only to stop the unwanted behavior, but also to make the
dog think twice about doing
it again. When dogs want attention – even eye contact could
potentially reinforce the behavior. The
best course of action would be for a correction to happen that does
not involve your attention.
It’s important to remember that it is easier to prevent behavior
problems than it is to correct them.
Behavior problems are best addressed using prevention, distraction,
correction and the fabrication
of situations.
15
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
PREVENTION:
~ Do obedience training to open the lines of communication,
establish yourself as an authority
figure, and provide the dog with mental stimulation.
~ Maintain dominance over the dog by establishing clear
rules.
~ Provide for the dog’s needs by keeping him on a schedule for
housebreaking, feeding, exercise
and play.
~ Teach an appropriate form of play such as fetch or hide and
seek.
~ Get the dog accustomed to being confined either in a crate or
behind a gate in a puppy-proof
area.
~ Provide suitable toys. (See Appropriate Toys and Play)
~Be careful not to inadvertently teach bad behaviors.If the dog
jumps up for a ball, don’t
throw it until he sits. If he jumps on the door to be let in or
out, do not open it. Do not give the
dog attention for inappropriate behaviors such as barking or
whining. If the dog cries or barks in
the cage because he wants to get out (and all of his needs have
been met), do not let him out or
you are reinforcing the behavior.
DISTRACTION:
~ It is often better to distract than to confront. Distract the dog
to stop unwanted behavior and
redirect the dogs’ attention. Save “NO” for big deals and use
distractions to interrupt the dog’s
behavior.
Examples:
1. If the dog begins to mouth (play-bite), pretend to sneeze (let
out a big AAAH-CHOO) this will
startle the dog, thereby stopping the behavior so you can offer a
more suitable object for the
dog to chew on.
2. Have one special squeak toy that you have enticed the dog with
(by letting everyone in the
family play with it in front of the dog) but have not given him.
Keep it away from the dog; it is
your toy not his. When the dog goes to do something inappropriate,
make a sharp noise to stop
the behavior. When the behavior has stopped, redirect the dog’s
attention by squeaking your
toy. The dog will come running. Say “come” as he is approaching.
When he gets to you, make
him sit using the toy. Only let the dog play with the toy for a
very short time (2 min.) then “trade”
him a treat for the toy.
It is very important that you first stop the behavior before using
the toy to redirect the dog’s
attention, or you will be praising the behavior instead of stopping
it. There are times when it is
better to distract than confront. This exercise allows you to stop
unwanted behavior while
reinforcing positive behavior. It also teaches “trade” and
reinforces “come” and “sit.”
~ Ask for a different behavior. Have the dog do something else such
as come or sit.
16
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
CORRECTIONS
Never hit a dog or use negative hand gestures toward the dog(such
as shaking your finger in
his face). Dogs communicate through body language and learn through
hand signals. They should
see your hands as a positive. If you hit a dog, he may become hand
shy and will learn to avoid you.
Hitting can cause a dominant dog to become aggressive and a
submissive or fearful dog to
become a fear biter.
Remember dogs do things for attention, therefore even negative
attention can reinforce the
behavior. If the dog is exhibiting a behavior to get your
attention, and the behavior cannot be
ignored, a correction must occur without giving the dog
attention.
Example:
~ When a dog is a nuisance at the dinner table, if you correct him,
you are giving him attention. But
ignoring him won’t work because he also wants your food. Have pot
lids or a shake can (See
Appropriate Corrections) on the table and as soon as the dog acts
up nonchalantly, slide the pot
lid or can off the table without saying anything or looking at the
dog. The dog will learn as soon
as he is a bother at the table this thunderous noise comes out of
nowhere.
APPROPRIATE CORRECTIONS
The element of surprise is important when using many of these
corrections.
Noise Corrections:
~ Shake can – 20 pennies in an empty soda can.
~ Throw chain – ultrasonic noise correction
~ Pot lids
~ Party favor horn
~ Motion detector (can be purchased at Radio Shack or through pet
supply catalogs under the
name “tattletale”) this can be used to keep dog off the furniture,
stealing and digging).
~ Water Pistol - this should only be filled with water and should
be small and remain hidden when
in use.
~ Garden Hose- To be squirted at the dog for digging, barking or
escaping from the yard.
~ Balloons- bury in holes where dog digs to act as landmines or
taped onto doors to prevent
dog from jumping on them.
~ Clear Packaging Tape/ Double Stick Tape- put on objects to deter
stealing and chewing
~ Clear Plastic Carpet Runner (sold in hardware stores such as Home
Depot).- This has teeth or
a prickly side that may cause discomfort when touched. This can be
used to keep dog off
furniture, counters (cut a strip and secure it to the front of the
counter using “fun tack”). It can
also be used to keep the dog away from things such as the Christmas
tree.
~ Leash Correction– A leash or tether (cotton cord) is attached to
either a regular, flat collar or a
training collar (choker, check choke or Martingale collar). A
correction is an in and out jerking
motion that goes in the direction you want the dog to go in as you
simultaneously say “no.”
~ Spray Commander– Remote Control Citronella Collar – sprays
citronella under the dog’s
muzzle. The sudden smell, sound and sensation are what stop the
dog. There is also a button
that emits a beep that can be used to reinforce positive
behavior.
17
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
FABRICATING SITUATIONS
Fabricating a situation means setting up the dog to exhibit a
behavior at a time that you have
set aside to address it instead of being blindsided by it. If you
know the dog consistently
exhibits a certain behavior under certain circumstances (such as
jumping on people entering
the house or chasing your children when they run by), you are in a
good position to work on
that problem.
There are a number of ways to address any given situation using
obedience, desensitization,
counter-conditioning, flooding, baiting, extinction and corrections
(see Solutions To Common
Behavior Problems).
Examples: Have your children run past the dog (you are baitingthe
dog). If the dog knows
obedience, have him “sit.” This is a counter-conditioningexercise
meaning the dog cannot run
and sit at the same time. If the dog goes to chase the children,
use a leash or noise correction.
Desensitizing– coupling what the dog loves in large doses with
things he is afraid of or takes
exception to in small doses. Example: If the dog is afraid of being
outside, sit and relax in front of
your home where the dog can see and hear different things but is at
a comfortable distance from
the activity. Give the dog a special bone, and after he relaxes
reward him for the appropriate
behavior by bringing him inside. If he will not take the bone, he
is too stressed, so you may need to
start in the side or back yard. Always reward the behavior by
taking him away from activity and do
not go closer until the dog is consistently comfortable at the
current distance.
Flooding– overexposure to something the dog is afraid of or takes
exception to.
Examples:
1. If the dog is wary of men have only the men of the household
give the dog care and attention.
2. If a dog overreacts to the sound of knocking-knock all day long
or tape record the sound and
play it all day long.
Extinction– Ignoring a behavior in order to extinguish it. Example:
Jumping or whining. Keep in
mind extinction will not be effective for self-gratifying behaviors
(behavior the dog derives pleasure
from), such as barking.
18
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
SOLUTIONS TO COMMON BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS
Barking:
Positive – If the dog is barking appropriately (someone is near the
property) let him bark 3 or 4
times while you say “say” then give him a long lasting treat. As he
is quietly eating it, say “quiet.”
Now you can use “say” as a command to bark (say ”hello,” say
“goodbye”) and “quiet” will mean
the absence of noise.
Corrections:Noise, water or leash correction depending on the
reason for the barking.
Chasing moving objects:
Positive– sit, stays, praise when the dog’s attention is on
you.
Correction:bait with water pistol or noise correction coming from
stimuli (i.e. car, bike) and leash
correction.
Chewing:
Positive– give your dog more exercise; feed him twice a day
(depending on his age). Supply with a
long lasting chew bone, such as a marrow bone filled with cheese or
you could use interactive toys
like a Kong or Buster Cube. Confine him in the crate with bone and
water. Leave the music on.
Correction:bait as with stealing, water pistol, noise correction
and leash correction
Digging in yard:Dogs will dig outside if they cannot see out of a
fenced-in yard, if they are tied,
hot, stressed or bored. Dogs are originally bred to hunt small game
and have a natural instinct to
dig.
Positive– Make sure dog gets enough exercise and is not left
outside without supervision. Dogs
mimic – do not garden in front of them. If possible, provide a
separate appropriate area for the dog
to dig, such as a sand box filled with dirt. Walk the dog and take
him in the car to socialize him and
provide a change of scenery
Correction: Bait the area where the dog digs by burying his stool
or balloons. Dogs do not like to
dig in their own excrement / balloons will act as landmines
startling the dog. Hide where the dog
cannot see you, as soon as he starts to dig douse him with water
from the hose or startle with a
noise correction.
Eating Feces/ Coprophagia:This is not an uncommon behavior for dogs
especially puppies. Soft
warm stool resembles the first solid food that mom regurgitated for
her puppies.
Positive:Have him checked by a veterinarian to rule out possible
medical causes such as parasites
or inadequate diet. Make sure the dog isn’t eating too fast which
can lead to digestive problems.
Putting a tennis ball, Kong or other heavy object in the middle of
the food bowl will help slow him
down. You can also give him gradual amounts of food instead of
giving it all at once. Keep toilet
area clean and immediately pick up stool. Try adding a bit of meat
tenderizer or a teaspoonful of
spinach or canned pineapple to the dogs’ food.
Correction:Teach the dog” leave it.” Use a leash correction or
noise correction.
Getting on the furniture:
Positive– establish his own suitable “bed.” Keep the dog on a
tether. Remove the dog from the
furniture and bring him to the appropriate “bed” and praise. Bait
area with clear packaging tape,
sticky side up or clear plastic carpet runner with teeth up.
Corrections:leash correction, water pistol.
19
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
Jumping the fence:
Positive– Get to the root of the problem. Can the dog see out?
Exercise, socialize and supervise.
Correction:fabricate and bait as with digging.
Jumping on people:
Positive– Dogs jump for attention (any attention), so ignore him,
and when he gets off say “off”
and praise. Teach an alternative behavior such as sit stays.
Correction:Water pistols, leash correction, stand on
leash/tether.
Mounting:
Positive– Maintain dominance. Do not physically get on the dog’s
level. Exercise and neuter your
dog.
Correction: leash correction; noise correction, water pistol.
Mouthing:
Positive– Never teach a dog the power of its mouth. No tug of war,
keep hands away from mouth.
Teach “leave it.” Leave / remove yourself as a playmate if your dog
chooses to mouth you. Put the
dog with an older dog to correct. Cry like a puppy and redirect the
dog’s attention to something
else.
Correction:bait with strong mouthwash, leash correction away from
hand.
Stealing:
Dogs usually steal to get your attention and play “catch me if you
can.”
Positive- Puppy proof and supervise when not confined. Never feed
from table or counter. Give
the dog suitable toys, no fabric, shoes, or stuffed animals. Feed
consistently two to three times a
day depending on the dog’s age. Take care of the dog’s needs for
attention and exercise by
establishing a routine.
Correction: You need to correct the dog without giving him
attention. Have the correction come
from the source by baiting objects and making stealing
undesirable.
Examples:
1. If the dog steals from the counter, use fun tac puddy to attach
a strip of clear carpet runner with
the prickly side up along the edge of the counter. This will make
it uncomfortable for the dog to
have his paws on the counter.
2. If he steals magazines, take one and cover it with double stick
tape. Leave it in an area the dog
would typically steal it from, it will stick to him.
3. If he steals paper towels, attach paper towels to a shake can
(see Appropriate corrections).
When the dog goes to steal the towels, the shake can will fall and
startle him.
4. Put black pepper on socks left on the floor. Dogs have a very
good sense of smell. This will be
unpleasant.
20
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
SUBMISSIVE URINATION
It is important to understand that submissive urination is not a
housebreaking problem.
Puppies will urinate when they are very excited simply because the
muscles controlling elimination
are not fully developed. This behavior usually subsides as the dog
matures but can continue in an
adult. Ignore the dog until he is calm.
Some dogs, those that are shy, lack confidence, are fearful or have
been abused will submissively
urinate in the presence of a person or dog they see as dominant or
as a threat. These dogs are
basically saying “please don’t hurt me.” This is an involuntary
act; do not scold the dog it will
only make it worse. Your aggression will only cause the dog to
behave more submissively. If not
dealt with in an appropriate way, this behavior will continue as
the dog matures.
If upon arriving home your dog urinates when he greets you, it is
important to ignore the dog
until he is calm. If you need to take him out to relieve himself,
do it with as little interaction as
possible. Do not bend over him; this is a threatening, dominant
gesture. Do not touch him, or make
eye contact. Talk to him only if you need to in order to take him
out. After the dog relieves himself,
you can greet him calmly. Bend down to his level. Pet him under the
chin not on the head. If you
consistently greet him in this manner and the urination subsides
you can gradually start rewarding
the behavior. Continue to ignore him when you first arrive home,
but reward him for being dry in
your presence by giving him a treat, not attention. It is difficult
for a dog to eliminate and eat at the
same time.
If your dog urinates submissively when company comes, they must
ignore him so the behavior is
not reinforced. Put a sign on your front door informing guests that
the dog is in training and should
be ignored. The sign prepares your guests before entering and
avoids explanations which
inevitably would draw attention to the dog. It sometimes helps to
have the dog walk in on the
company instead of the company walking in on the dog. Try putting
the dog outside or behind a
gate and bringing him in after the company has already entered. The
company should continue to
ignore the dog until he is calm. If the dog is fearful or shy he
should continue to be ignored by the
company and be allowed to approach when he feels comfortable. The
owner should praise the
dog for any appropriate behavior. Eventually the dog should be
taught to sit and stay at the door
when greeting people. If the dog is taught to sit and stay, he
needs to concentrate on maintaining
that command and is unable to get into an excited state, which
leads to the urination.
If the dog is shy, fearful or has been abused, patience, stability
and confidence building are
needed. Deal with behavior problems in a constructive way, do not
hit or shout at the dog.
Dogs are pack animals and live according to a social hierarchy.
This social structure is the one
constant in a dog’s life. Seeing you as the pack leader, knowing
their place and the rules of the
household enables the dog to be stable and obedient. Obedience
training opens the lines of
communication and builds confidence. Establishing a daily routine
for feeding, housebreaking,
exercise and constructive play (such as fetch) gives the dog
something to look forward to, and aids
in the dogs stability. Fetch is also a confidence building
exercise. Agility training is also an excellent
way to build confidence and socialize the dog.
21
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
SEPARATION ANXIETY
Separation anxiety is a real emotional disorder. Dogs are
highly
social pack animals. Some dogs react in a distressed manner
when
left by their human “pack.”Depending on the severity, this can be
one
of the hardest behavior problems to resolve. It requires patience
and
understanding. The dog cannot help himself, the behaviors are
not
deliberate.Common behaviorsassociated with separation anxiety
are
destruction (typically by doors and windows), elimination and
vocalization. These dogs can also appear overly needy.
Treatment:
Building confidence and providing stability:
~ Establish and maintain a clear social hierarchy(see
“Establishing
Yourself as the Pack Leader).
~ Establish a daily routine for feeding, walking and
playing.“Retrieving / Fetch” is a good
confidence building exercise (see Appropriate Play).
~ Practice formal obedience.Obedience opens the lines of
communication and builds confidence.
~ Establish a secure comfortable confinement area(preferably away
from the door you leave from).
This should be used at times when you are home as well as when you
are out (so the dog does
not associate being confined with you leaving). The dog should have
a long lasting bone or
activity toy while in this area as well as water.
~ Don’t make a big deal about going or coming.Ignore the dog for a
few minutes before leaving
and returning. Don’t give him attention until he is calm.
~ Discourage any needy (attention getting) behaviors by ignoring
the dog.Be sure not to give the
dog constant attention, because when you leave, the dog will not
only miss your presence, but
miss the attention as well.
~ Teach “stay” gradually working up to you being out of sight.This
will stop the dog from
constantly following you and teach him to relax when you are not in
sight.
Desensitizing:
~ Take Away Cues– Everyone has a routine from the time they get up
until leaving the house. Dogs
communicate through body language. They pick up on these “cues” and
begin to become
anxious. Make a list of the things you typically do before leaving
the house (brush your teeth,
close a certain door, pick up your keys, etc.). Keep this list on
your refrigerator and do these
things at various times during the course of the day without
leaving. The dog will no longer
associate these actions with you leaving and won’t have time to
become anxious.
~ Use Music as Therapy– Play the same music or a specific artist
initially only when you are
relaxing and petting the dog. After doing this daily for a week or
so the dog will have a soothing
association with that music. You can then leave it on when you
leave.
~ Keep Him Company– Make a video or audio tape with your voice and
the sounds of a typical
day in your house and leave it on when you leave.
In some cases, anti-anxiety medication coupled with behavior
modification may be necessary.
There are also herbal anti-anxiety products such as “Rescue
Remedy.”
Speak to your veterinarian.
22
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
BARRIER FRUSTRATION
As social animals, dogs have a natural desire to explore and make
contact with people and other
dogs. A dog that spends all of his time in the house or the yard,
has limited interaction with
different people and dogs. Exposure to outsiders is typically
restricted to those passing by the
house. The dog is behind a barrier – either a window, a door or a
fence – making it impossible for
him to act on his instinct to investigate. When the dog is
repeatedly unable to fulfill this need to
explore, he becomes frustrated.
If the dog’s only experience with strangers is limited to this
frustrating situation, he will begin to
associate bad feelings with strangers in general and become
agitated at the sight of them. This is
one of the reasons a dog acts aggressively toward the mailman. If
socialization is delayed, when
the dog finally has the opportunity to meet strangers or other dogs
he may become over
stimulated and may act aggressively.
Frustration may be displayed through hyperactivity, barking,
lunging or aggression toward people
going by the house, yard or, car, coming to the door or into the
house, or when the dog is on a
leash, tied or in a crate. This is often mistaken as “protective”
behavior.
This behavior problem can be addressed in the following ways:
• Take the dog for walks regularly to diversify his environment.
This may involve obedience training
and finding a training tool that gives you control over the dog.
Make sure your dog is
accustomed to any collar or harness as well as a leash before
beginning this program. There are
a variety of no-pull harnesses on the market. Premiere makes a body
harness, the” Easy Walk”
and a head harness,” the Gentle Leader.” Obedience training
provides you with the knowledge
and confidence to walk calmly with the dog, which is important
since the dog picks up on your
feelings and reacts accordingly. Through training the dog learns to
look to you for direction
instead of reacting to his feelings. You may not change the way the
dog feels but you can change
the way he reacts to those feelings.
• Always have the dog ”wait” * at the door while you go through
first, and then tell him to “go
through.” This shows that you are the “pack leader” and own any
territory you are entering. It
also provides you with control over the dog before you leave the
house. Never allow the dog to
walk in front of you. You are the pack leader, not the dog.
• Teaching “Wait” at the door: In order for a dog to understand
what a word means, you need to
connect the word to the dog’s action. When you go to the door, the
dog typically follows and is
waiting for you to open the door. Make sure you are closer to the
door than the dog is. Say ”wait”
and SLOWLY start to open the door. If the dog goes to run out, say
”no,” and close the door in
the dog’s face, NOT ON THE DOG. The dog is now waiting again.
Repeat the above. The goal is
to be able to open the door wide enough for the dog to get through
while he remains waiting until
given the command to “go through” or to “heel.” This should be done
even if you are letting him
out into the yard without you. Using treats when the dog is waiting
will help to hasten the
process.
23
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
• It is important to establish a clear hierarchy in your household
with all family members being
dominant over the dog. Please see attached, “Establishing Yourself
as The Pack Leaders” found
in the “Starting off Right“ literature.
• When meeting people for the first time, it is important not to
allow anyone to push themselves on
the dog. The dog should be allowed to approach and investigate in
his own natural way.
• Counter-conditioning and desensitizing exercises should be
incorporated to build a positive
association with people and other dogs. Distraction should be used
in place of correction when
appropriate if the dog exhibits any barrier issues. A correction
would tie a negative association to
something the dog already perceives as a negative. However, when
using counter-conditioning,
the dog has been taught obedience, a correction should be
implemented if the dog disobeys a
direct command. An example of counter-conditioning would be the use
of the “sit stay”
command: the dog cannot lunge at people if he is in a “sit stay.”
He must learn to focus on your
direction, not react on his own. Desensitizing would be tying a
positive to what the dog perceives
as a negative (see attached literature).
• When faced with situations the dog is uncomfortable with, you
should always act calm and
normal. This way the dog can read your body language and feel that
perhaps the situation is not
a threat after all.
PROTECTIVE BEHAVIOR / GUARDING
(“Starting Off Right” literature should accompany this hand
out)
Dogs go through many changes in their lives. Their homes, families
and even names can change.
The one constant in their lives is the social structure by which
they live. Dogs are pack animals that
live by a social hierarchy or pecking order. When a dog enters a
new home he/she is looking for
that structure. It is important for obedience and stability that
the dog see all members of the family
as dominant. If the dog does not see the owners as authority
figures, he /she has no reason to
listen to them. If there is inconsistent behavior on the part of
the family, the dog’s behavior will also
be inconsistent. If he/she does not see a clear pack leader, he/she
will assume the roll in order to
ensure the integrity of the pack. This means he /she is in charge
and may feel the need to protect
the rest of the pack. If not properly socialized, he/she may begin
to see strangers outside of the
pack as a threat. It is important for all members of the family to
establish and maintain a strong
leadership roll.
Establishing dominance can be done through everyday interaction
with the family, (please refer to
the enclosed literature titled, “Starting Off Right). Obedience
training is suggested to further
establish dominance as well as opening the lines of
communication.
Desensitizing and counter conditioning exercises may be necessary
depending on the severity of
the problem.
24
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
RUNNING OUT THE DOOR
Your dog should always be on a leash when not in a confined area.
As the “pack leader,” you
should always go through the door first. If the dog goes through
first without your permission, he is
claiming the territory he is entering as his own. If you do not
have control over the dog before
leaving the house you will not have control whenyou are out of the
house.
Teach the dog to “wait” at the door. Wait is different than stay.
Stay means to stay in one spot,
in one position. Wait simply means “don’t follow.”
Wait:In order for a dog to understand what a word means, you need
to connect the word to the
dog’s action. When you go to open a door, the dog is typically
there waitingfor you to open it.
Have a soft or small treat available. You should be closer to the
door than the dog is. Say “wait,”
and give the dog a treat as you slowlystart to open the door. If
the dog goes to run out the door,
make a sharp noise like “eh” and close the door in his face. Wait a
second, and the dog will be
waiting again. Repeat the above. You want to be able to open the
door wide enough for the dog to
get through while he continues to wait for the command to “go
through.” If you are going out with
him, go through the door first and then tell the dog to “go
through.” If you are just letting him out
into the yard and not going with him, still make him wait and then
say “Go through.” This exercise
requires no obedience training just persistence. You are using the
door as a training tool. This
exercise teaches the dog to wait at doors and to only go out when
given the command to “go
through.”
Once the dog understands he only goes through the door when given
the command to do so, you
can justifiably bait him for running out the door.
Baiting for running out the door:Make sure you initially practice
this at a door leading to an
enclosed area or have a long line on the dog for safety.
Set up the situation that would typically cause the dog to run out
(such as when someone comes
or goes or if the door is left ajar). Hide on the outside of the
door against the house with pot lids.
The second the dog’s’ nose comes through that door, bang the pot
lids or throw them down in
front of him without saying anything. The dog will quickly learn
that when he goes out the door
without permission a thunderous noise comes out of nowhere.
25
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
OBJECT / FOOD POSSESSIVENESS
It is a natural instinct for a dog to guard his resources; it is
not an acceptable behavior in a home
environment. It is very important that you practice obedience and
assert yourself as the pack
leader through everyday interaction. As the pack leader, you own
all the resources – not the dog.
The dog should be made to work for everything including attention
by complying to a command
such as “sit” before being given anything. If the dog tends to
guard stolen objects, you need to
address the stealing (see Solutions to Common Behavior Problems).
Bait the type of objects the
dog tends to steal or save items he has already stolen or destroyed
and use them as bait. Do not
give the dog bones or objects he tends to guard. Avoid chew
products that are obvious by-
products of animals such as hooves or pig ears. The “prey killer”
instinct in a dog lies dormant.
These products can cause the dog to become aggressive when he has
them.
Commands to Implement When Dealing With Object Possessiveness
Leave it – this means leave it alone, whether the dog is
going
for an object or sniffing someone inappropriately. There are
a
few ways to teach this command. Remember the dog needs
to know what the word means before it can be used as a
command. You build a vocabulary by naming the dogs
‘behavior as he is doing it.
Example:
1. Show the dog an object such as a biscuit. Place the
biscuit
under your foot (make sure you are wearing hard shoes).
Let the dog try to get the object but make sure he can’t reach it.
When he stops trying say
“leave it” (naming his behavior) and give him a better treat from
your hand.
2. Have the dog on a leash and drop some sort of food (such as
small pieces of bread) on the
floor. Try to make it appear like an accident. When the dog goes
for the object pull him away
making a sharp noise like “eh.” When he leaves it, say “leave it”
and give him a better treat from
your hand. If he looks at the object on the floor but doesn’t go
for it say “leave it” (since he is
leaving it) and give him the better treat from your hand. After a
week of daily practice doing this
the dog should know what “leave it” means, and you can start using
it as a command.
Introduce items he typically steals such as tissues. Pretend you
are blowing your nose and
“accidentally” drop the tissue or place the tissue where he
typically steals from. If he goes for
the item, say “leave it” and praise when he complies.
Drop it.
Fetch using two identical balls that squeak is the easiest way to
teach “drop it.” (see Appropriate
Play).
26
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
EXERCISES FOR FOOD POSSESSIVENESS
Sit Stay
Have the dog stay while you put his food down
Gesture Feed– This is an easy way to communicate to the dog that
you are the pack leader and
own the resources. Pour the dog’s food. While the dog is watching,
you stand with the bowl in your
arms and eat a cracker as though you are eating from the bowl. When
you are finished, have the
dog sit and put the bowl down (he is subservient, he gets your
leftovers). As soon as the dog walks
away and is a safe distance away, pick up the food.
You Provide the Food
Feed the dog starting with an empty bowl and gradually adding his
food by pouring it from a
standing position. Make sure the dog has on a leash or tether for
safety.
If your dog is displaying aggression or you are not comfortable
with his behavior, contact the
Behavior Department of North Shore Animal League America to set up
an evaluation with a
professional trainer.
27
z2007 North Shore Animal League
America
25 Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575
TRAINING TOOLS
There are a variety of training methods and tools on the market to
suit the needs of the individual.
Remember that regardless of the method of training chosen, all dogs
live according to a social
hierarchy. The dog must see you as a pack leader or authority
figure through your daily interactions
(see “Establishing Yourself As The Pack Leader”).
Dogs learn through consistent repetition and reinforcement.
Reinforcement is anything that
motivates the individual dog, examples;* attention, treats, balls,
toys etc.
* Most dogs do things for attention. Any attention can be
reinforcing, even negative attention
is better than no attention at all.
Recommended Leashes– The leash should have a toggle clasps that is
pressed down to open
rather than a clasp that you push in to open. A clasp that pushes
in can too easily open
accidentally
Leather Lead– this is strong and comfortable. It will not hurt your
hands and will usually last the
lifetime of the dog.
Canvas Training Lead– this is lightweight but strong and will not
hurt your hands.
Size– six feet is a comfortable length. This provides control while
allowing the dog to walk on a
loose leash at your side when taught to heel. A comfortable width
for most people is 5/8” wide.
Recommended Collars(should only be on when you are home)
Check or Modified Choke–this looks like a regular flat collar but
has a section of chain for “give.”
When enforcing a traditional “corrective jerk,” the collar closes
on the other side of itself without
compromising the dog’s neck. This is especially good for pups, and
timid dogs.
Martingale – this is similar to the Check or Modified choke but the
section providing the “give” is
cloth not chain.
Traditional Training Collar or Choker – applies a corrective jerk
when necessary while
simultaneously saying “no.” The direction of the correction tells
the dog what is expected of him
(not recommended for pups under the age of 4 months, toy breeds or
breeds with long torsos such
as Basset Hounds or Corgis.
“Spray Commander” Remote Control Citronella Collar– this is a
remote control collar that
sprays citronella up under the dogs chin (not in his face) to stop
unwanted behavior. The sudden
smell, sound and sensation are what stop the dog. There is also a
button that emits a “beep” that
can be used to reinforce positive behavior.
Recommended Harnesses
Gentle Leader Head Harness– this is like a bridle on a horse. This
works by prevention and
direction rather than correction. Go to gentleleader.com or further
information.
No-Pull Harnesses– there are a variety available. Examples: the
SENSE-ation and SENSE-ible
dog harness (softouchconcepts.com) or the Sporn No-Pull.
*The Pet Boutique at North Shore Animal League America
carries many of these products.
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25
Davis Avenue Port Washington, NY11050
www.animal-league.org 516.883.7575